Harvest season has arrived in Urla — and I timed my trip perfectly to catch the very start of it. There’s an infectious buzz in the air: teams working in the vineyards and cellars, the scent of crushed grapes drifting from winery doors, and the Aegean sun casting its late-summer glow over vineyards.
Urla – A Historic Wine Region with a Modern Renaissance
Urla, on the Aegean coast of western Turkey and just half an hour from my hometown of İzmir, has a winemaking history stretching back to the 11th century BC. The ancient Ionians planted vines in Klazomenai, the city that once stood where modern-day Urla now lies, laying the foundations for a viticultural tradition that continues today. Over the centuries, this peninsula has been known for its olive oil, fishing and agriculture, but in recent years it has experienced a remarkable revival as one of Turkey’s most exciting gastronomic destinations with Michelin-starred restaurants popping up in unassuming corners.
The rolling, wind-cooled hills are dotted with artichoke farms, olive groves and vineyards, while sheltered bays sparkle with the turquoise waters of the Aegean. Olive oil has been produced here since at least the 6th century BC, and now, alongside olive presses, small boutique wineries are flourishing. The Urla Vineyard Route showcases the area’s diversity, from native grapes to international classics, and makes it an ideal destination for wine travellers.
During my visit, I spent time with two producers who perfectly capture the region’s energy and dedication: Hus and Urla Wines. They’re part of a growing number of passionate wineries here, many of which are well worth a visit.
Hus – Family Passion and the Rise of Cariñena in Urla
I began at Hus, a small boutique family winery I’d first visited for lunch at their excellent on-site restaurant in 2022. This time, I returned to taste their full range and tour the winery with founder Ceylan Ertörer Diaz Leon, hearing first-hand about her passion for making wine in her home region.